Basel is, perhaps, the only city in the world that’s best experienced at 4 a.m. on a Monday. On a particular Monday, that is: the one after Ash Wednesday, when nearly every local with a pulse turns up in the Old Town for a parade known as the Morgenstreich. Then, on the fourth chime of the bells at Basel’s oldest church, all the lights of the city are turned off, and costumed marching bands called “cliques” fire up a tune to signal the start of Basel’s Fasnacht. This uniquely exhilarating, 72-hour Lenten Carnival illustrates an essential truth about this cosmopolitan riverside city of 170,000 that hugs Alsace and the Black Forest.
Basel may be best known for Art Basel, the world’s biggest art fair (June 18 to 21 this year), for its museums and pharmaceutical companies, and as the birthplace of the tennis legend Roger Federer. But it is, above all, a city of traditions, none more cherished than Fasnacht (March 2 to 5), which locals call the three best days of the year.
Travelers on quick grand tours of the Continent might overlook Basel, which is a shame because it boasts an Old Town as lovely as any in Europe, a collection of 40 museums, and hospitable locals who are proud to show off their hometown. In an era in which the world’s most popular destinations are often under siege with too many tourists, underrated but equally alluring places like Basel deserve a second look.
Friday
1) 3 p.m. Rhine time
Start your weekend adventure in Kleinbasel along the banks of the Rhine, the lifeblood of this city since a Celtic tribe first settled along this bend in the river during the Bronze Age. The Kleinbasel (Lesser Basel) side is a great place for a riverfront ride on an ebike, available at the main train station for 20 Swiss francs per day, or about $20.50 with a BaselCard (free with any hotel stay, also includes 50 percent off museum admissions and other perks). But if you want to become an honorary Basler, you’ve got to also feel the current of the river. In the summer, swimming in the cool, clean Rhine and then repairing to a riverside buvette (stall) for a drink or snack is the quintessential Basel tradition. Another tradition, which can be done year around (weather permitting), is crossing over to Grossbasel (Greater Basel) on one of the city’s four wooden ferry boats (1.60 francs), which use only the natural power of the river’s currents.
36 Hours in Basel, Switzerland
2) 4 p.m. Tracing Basel's powerful duo of the medieval times
History shines through the Basilica of Basel, which was sanctified a millennium ago, precisely on October 11, 1019. Unveiled atop an antique place of worship by none other than the Holy Roman Emperor, Saint Henry II - the cherished patron of Basel and his consort, Cunigunde, the cathedral speaks volumes of the era's grandeur. This venerated couple, renowned for their commitment to asceticism, fostered a widespread spiritual devotion. The cathedral is best explored under the guidance of Dr. Helen Liebendörfer, an erudite and cordial English-speaking tour guide who will unveil hidden gems throughout the city that would otherwise go unnoticed (guidedtours@basel.com). Make sure to seek out the resting place of Erasmus of Rotterdam within the confines of the cathedral. This remarkable scholar made Basel his home and his former residence has been converted into an intriguing pharmacy museum that's worth a visit.
3) 18:00 Witness Affluence in Action
While staying at the luxuriant, five-star Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois might not be within everyone's budget, it's certainly worth dressing up and visiting the hotel's bar for a cocktail. Inaugurated in 1681, this hotel rich in chandeliers brims with grandeur and is one of the oldest and most prestigious in all Europe. If the weather permits, secure an outdoor seat to enjoy a panoramic view of the Rhine. If not, nestle by the fireplace to experience the sophisticated ambience. Order a glass of their exquisite house rosé for 9 francs or indulge with a cheeseburger and fries for around 48.
4) 8 p.m. Delving into Historic Ambiance
Experience a delightful gastronomic journey at Schlüsselzunft, a restaurant pulsating with Old World charm. Nestled within a guildhall structure dating back to 1306, it is conveniently located on a pedestrian street in Basel's captivating Old Town. Its first floor exudes a unique Kings and Knights ambiance while the ground level boasts a 1850-era ceramic stone oven positioned at the heart of the dining area. The venue switches up its menu regularly; however, recent notable dishes have included the Kalbsleberstreifen or veal liver strips smothered in a rich madeira sauce priced at 36 francs, and the Rehgeschnetzeltes featuring strips of venison paired with forest mushrooms in a satisfying cream concoction available for 38 francs.
Saturday
5) 9 a.m. The Tale of Two Basels
Begin your Saturday with a leisurely stroll through the famed Mittlere Brücke (Middle Bridge), a historic pathway since its establishment in 1226. While crossing, make sure to observe the delightful yet tiny chapel (Käppelijoch), which is a labor of love, a meticulous replica of an age-old bridge chapel associated with a dark past--a place where accused witches, miscreants, and convicts were thrown into the Rhine. As you meander towards Grossbasel, you immediately see a striking statue post-bridge—King Helvetia, teasingly poking his tongue out towards Kleinbasel. Your ramble continues right towards Andreasplatz, a quaint square that particularly bursts into life during Fasnacht. This square is home to an eclectic mix of boutique shops, an intriguing statue of a grape-gorging monkey, and, inconspicuously happening upon its cozy corner, isHolzofenbäckei Bio Andreas, an eccentric bakery that operates on organic principles. The bakery's passion for their traditional wood oven is so profound, they've written a love letter to it, waxing lyrical about its warmth and smoky charm. Don't forget to end your visit with a bold cup of coffee and a palatable spread of delectable croissants, pastries, and exceptional bread.
6) 10 a.m. Stepping Into History
Embarking on an unplanned journey through the quaint neighborhood of Basel’s Old Town is an experience that can transport you back to a forgotten era. Three gates, remnants of the original seven, still stand as a testament to the city's historical architecture, and many domiciles proudly display their construction date on the facades. As you navigate the steps leading to the unique No. 31 Ginger Street, you stumble upon the charming Hoosesagg Museum, an enchanting space which showcases a rotating exhibit of themed miniature collections, replenished each month by generous community contributors imparting miniature artifacts ranging from iconic Eiffel towers to exquisite ceramic turtles. The town seamlessly integrates fascinating lore with everyday life; a prime example being the intriguing Elftausendjungfern Gässlein or 11,000 Virgins Lane. This strange name pays tribute to a cherished local legend that tells the tale of 11,000 maiden followers of St. Ursula who, reportedly, reached the city by boat during the Middle Ages and were subsequently martyred in Cologne. Such intriguing anecdotes lie in wait at every nook and corner, infusing a sense of intrigue and wonder.
7) 12:30 p.m. Unearthing Federer's Roots
Arguably, Basel's most celebrated son is none other than Roger Federer, overshadowing even Erasmus. His childhood was spent in the serene suburb of Munchenstein, nestled within the Wohnblock of Wasserhaus. It was here that Federer began to perfect his tennis artistry, firstly at the now-demolished Ciba-Geigy Club and progressed to the still bustling Tennis Club Old Boys. Court 1 honored this local hero by bearing his name. Board the No. 8 tram and alight upon the Bernerring stop for a chance to explore these hallowed grounds. Tennis enthusiasts can even book a coaching session with advance notice. A little known gem lies within the club confines - the La Vongola restaurant. Savour their three-course meal, just costing a mere 20 francs. Their entire pasta offerings are worth trying, however, if the daily menu doesn't pique your curiosity, delve into the Strozzapreti, an intriguing dish laden with fresh seafood extravagantly priced at 29.50 francs.
8) 3 p.m. Sinful Indulgence
Your journey to explore the cubbyhole of Swiss desserts should begin by visiting Läderach. This Swiss chocolate haven, counted amongst the eminent chocolatiers of Switzerland, is sure to enthral you with their fine class of chocolates. Beyond Basel's petite red-light district in Kleinbasel lies the truly sensuous experience - stepping into Läderach and letting the aromatic scent of premium chocolate bewitch your senses. Did you know the frischschoggi – dazzling Swiss milk chocolate masterpieces embedded with colossal Piedmont hazelnuts were hailed as a secret Cold War weapon? Are you aware of the fact that Switzerland's neutrality in the Cold War spared the world of this delectable weapon? For takeaway mementos, opt for a box of Basler Läckerli from Läckerli Huus. This enduring gingerbread biscuit has spelt fanatical obsession amongst the locals since medieval times. With three branches scattered through the city, you never have to go far for your Läckerli fix. Your feet might urge you to take a leisure stroll down Spalenberg, the bustling shopping street of the city. Abode to shops like Hejkoh, this district caters to your taste for sophisticated women's attire, home decor and alluring gifts. Pause for a leisure chat at their quaint cafe beloved by avocado-toast enthusiasts.
9) 7 p.m. A Haven for Cordon Bleu
Welcoming you with an atmosphere of festivity and indulgence, Zum Gifthüttli Bier & Weinstube located in Old Town promises a night of delightful gastronomy. It is renowned for its house specialties; a diverse range of cordon bleus loaded with different meats. The menu is a carnivore's dream featuring delicacies such as venison steaks, fiery boar pepper steak and deer cordon bleu. Sample the delectable veal cordon bleu schwinger, stuffed with farmhand's bacon and nöldis cheese (34 francs). Enticing the sweet tooth, if you overlooked Läderach, you've got an open invitation to indulge in the decadent chocolate lava cake accompanied by homemade vanilla ice cream—an absolute delight worth an upcoming nine-mile walk to burn those extra calories. Let the merriment extend into the night with a hearty pint or two at Volta Bräu, a lively brewpub often hosting complimentary live music. Alternatively, head over to the newly inaugurated hotspot in Kleinbasel, Matt & Elly Brewery & Kitchen, serving an exotic selection of seasonal beer and food.
Sunday
10) 10 a.m. Paperboys’ brunch
Basel became a center for humanism and publishing following the establishment of the University of Basel in 1460, attracting a host of noteworthy writers and scholars, most notably Erasmus, who published the New Testament in Greek in 1516. Basel’s tourism office operates an excellent Sunday brunch tour (50 francs) that includes a tour of the Basel Paper Mill and a delicious brunch at the museum’s restaurant. Set in a lovely canalside paper mill that was operational for more than 500 years in Basel’s charming St. Alban-Tor neighborhood, the child-friendly museum offers fun hands on exhibits that illuminate the history of printing, paper and writing.
11) Noon. Picasso time
Basel is a museum city par excellence, with 40 to choose from, including two powerhouse art museums: the sprawling Kunstmuseum Basel (25 francs, half price with BaselCard; children free), which is free the first Sunday of each month, and the small, but worthwhile, Fondation Beyeler (25 francs, half price with BaselCard; free for 25 and under) in a light-filled Renzo Piano-designed building in a pretty area of Riehen, north of the city. The Kunstmuseum started as a private art cabinet in the 16th century and is now a world-class museum that’s known for its collection of six works by Pablo Picasso, including one of his “Seated Harlequin” works. In 1967, after the museum was about to lose two Picassos — the private collector who owned them was in debt and needed to sell — local art lovers mobilized, spearheading the passage of a referendum allowing the city to buy them for 8.4 million francs. Picasso was so moved that he gave the museum three more paintings and a drawing.
12) 2 p.m. A Stroll in Nature
A short distance south of the Fondation Beyeler, awaits a serene sanctuary to conclude your weekend—the often overlooked Villa Wenkenhof. This majestic English-style villa, sculpted in 1735, is surrounded by picturesque gardens that are freely accessible every day, except Saturdays. This destination carries significant historical weight, as it's where renowned tennis champion Roger Federer exchanged vows with Mirka Vavrinec. Feel free to explore these enchanting gardens and snap photos at the same location they did, situated in front of the horse stable, left adjacent to the main villa.
Accommodation
Basel is well-known for its wide array of vacation rentals, a favorite among holidaymakers. By choosing to find respite in a hotel, you'd benefit from a complimentary BaselCard. This card blesses you with unrestricted access to public transport and drops the ticket price by 50% at all museums. Accommodation prices on Airbnb normally start from approximately $100 per night for a modest-sized flat, though, the prices can surge based on the location, attributes, and the season. However, if you are looking for a different kind of experience, consider staying in a casino hotel. These accommodations offer the convenience of having both lodging and entertainment in one place. They are particularly popular for those who want to combine relaxation with a bit of thrill during their stay. Check out some of the best Switzerland Casino hotels at top-hotels-switzerland.com . These hotels not only provide top-notch comfort but also an exciting gaming experience that can make your stay even more memorable.
The elegant Krafft Basel, located near the Middle Bridge in Kleinbasel, is a chic hotel brimming with personality. A notable feature includes rooms with breathtaking views of the river. Historical fact: it is here that the famous author Herman Hesse penned part of his book 'Steppenwolf'. Their stellar restaurant features a terrace, serving as a prime location for people-watching on a sunny day. The nightly rate kicks off with 144 francs.
Situated on the Rhine since 1681 is the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, where you can gaze out over the elegant Middle Bridge. Experience the luxury reminiscent of European grand palaces, with dazzling chandeliers that could rival the wealth of some nations, and regal furnishings that would be fitting in a place such as Versailles. The room tariffs start from a solid 545 francs.