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A local’s guide to the Hunter Valley: ‘It’s easy to get caught in the tourist traps’

If you're planning a visit to the Hunter Valley, make sure to check out Sweetwater Estate in Belford. This picturesque winery is at its prime during the spring season, when the vineyards transform from their winter slumber to lush greenery.

The Hunter Valley attracts over 8 million visitors annually, thanks to its close proximity to Sydney. However, it's important to avoid getting trapped in the usual tourist spots. While the region offers a plethora of festivals, concerts, and even alpaca walks through the vineyards, there are hidden gems waiting to be discovered if you dig a little deeper.

For a more unique and remarkable experience, venture beyond the typical hotspots and explore lesser-known establishments. Discover family-run wineries that offer personalized tastings, indulge in farm-to-table dining experiences, or take part in hands-on workshops with local artisans.

The Hunter Valley is vast (covering 29,000 sq km) and includes Lake Macquarie, Newcastle, parts of the Barrington Tops and as far west as Muswellbrook, though for the majority of visitors a trip will include the wine regions of Pokolbin and Broke. With extensive mining and development, it’s a far cry from the untouched land of the Wonnarua people who inhabited the Upper Hunter for more than 30,000 years. Once the first grapevines were planted in the early 1800s, the region became synonymous with the vineyards planted in the shadow of the Broken Back Range.

A car drives down a dirt backroad in the Hunter Valley

Exploring the picturesque Hunter Valley, with its vineyards nestled at the base of the Broken Back Range, offers a truly immersive experience. Having resided here for nearly a decade and having worked in the tourism industry, I have had the pleasure of exploring numerous attractions. However, to make the most of your visit, it is wise to steer clear of the bustling distilleries and wine, beer, and cider venues so popular among young party-goers. Instead, venture off the beaten path and discover the hidden gems that abound.

Moreover, if you plan to visit on a long weekend, it is essential to note that traffic congestion on the M1 can be quite time-consuming, especially on Mondays. To ensure a smooth journey back to Sydney, it is advisable to plan accordingly to avoid lengthy delays.

Discover the enchanting wonders of Kakadu through the eyes of a dedicated birder. With a mantra of 'Don't give up until you go to bed', this vast national park promises thrilling encounters with a multitude of avian species.

While spring unveils the lush greenery of Kakadu, its favorable weather makes it an ideal time to plan your visit. Winter may lack the same picturesque appeal, but the comforting warmth of a crackling fire combined with a glass of local shiraz creates an irresistible ambiance. Be prepared for variations in opening hours, especially during mid-week visits; incorporating a Saturday into your itinerary will provide a wider range of options.

In light of Covid-19 restrictions, it is crucial to make advance reservations for all aspects of your stay, including wine-tasting experiences, as most cellar doors now charge a nominal fee (ranging from $5 to $25 or more per person). Gone are the days of spontaneity, where you could leisurely explore the Hunter Valley's charming country roads and stop wherever you fancied, although mid-week visits may offer more flexibility in this regard.

A Must-Experience

In your exploration of the Hunter, the local wines are an absolute must-try. One of the most cherished experiences is engaging with the vintners who craft these exquisite drinks. In Lovedale, make sure to pay a visit to the established winemaker, Dan Binet and taste his creations at Domaine de Binet. Offering an engaging and enjoyable tasting experience in an open-air backdrop, Dan is also open to guiding you through an exclusive tour to delve into the depths of his winemaking process. Further off the beaten track, you'll find Pierre’s Wines in Branxton. Run by the acclaimed winemaker, Peter Went, these wines are considered among Australia's finest. Peter provides tastings that are both intriguing and relaxed. As an additional fact, the Hunter Valley is the oldest wine region in Australia, and Peter's wine crafting process takes full advantage of its rich, unique climate and soil.

Peter Went pours a sample of champagne from a vat at Pierre’s Wines

Peter Went pours a sample of champagne from a vat at Pierre’s Wines.

A wine testing set up at Pierre’s Wines in Branxton, Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia

Discover the delightful wine tasting experience offered at the local Branxton's Pierre's Wines.

Travel an additional 30 minutes from Pokolbin to Broke could lead you to another unforgettable adventure - a fantastic wine tasting session with the charming Dave Fromberg at Running Horse Wines. The winery presents a blend of impressiveness and simplicity, with Dave's matured wines offering a unique flavor profile that unquestionably captures the essence of the region's grapes at an affordable expense.

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Don't miss the chance to experience the authentic Hunter Valley through these local gems, portraying the best of Australian vineyards without breaking the bank.

Remember, it's not just about the destination, but the fascinating journey and experiences that enrich your travel.

Culinary Experiences

Just as expected from this bountiful region, a diverse food scene thrives here. Opportunities for fine dining abound – the globally-renowned Muse Restaurant in Pokolbin is a standout. With Chef Troy Rhoades-Brown at the helm crafting novel flavors using a variety of locally-sourced ingredients, you're in for a gastronomic delight. Impeccable service and a wide-ranging wine menu add to the unforgettable dining experience. They also offer a vegan tasting menu worth asking about. If mingling with locals over great food is your preference, drop by the Royal Federal Hotel in Branxton. Serving quality pub fare complemented with Hunter Valley's finest wines, this watering hole is particularly popular on Sunday evenings.

The Royal Federal Hotel in BranxtonBurgers are plated in the kitchen of the Royal Federal Hotel

The Royal Federal Hotel kitchen plates up delectable burgers.

For a tranquil morning or afternoon meal, seek a spot on the porch of Kawul, Pokolbin. With a menu featuring robust, primarily indigenous ingredients, this location offers a tranquil retreat. It allows visitors the chance to disconnect from the daily rush, while taking in the scenic views of the adjacent vineyard and dam.

Where to sleep

For boutique self-contained accommodation set on 100 stunning acres, stay with Lucy and Jason at Block Eight Estate, Belford (from $350 per night). They have five beautifully appointed villas and prices includes a breakfast hamper and bottle of the estate’s wine.

One of the beautifully furnished private villas at Block Eight Estate

One of the beautifully furnished private villas at Block Eight Estate.

Lucy and Jason, owners of Block Eight Estate in Belford

Meet Lucy and Jason, the dynamic duo who own the scenic Block Eight Estate, nestled in Belford.

If you're seeking a unique hotel stay, consider Spicers Guesthouse in Pokolbin, with prices beginning at $220 per night. The hotel is a feast for the eyes, featuring intricately designed rooms and a top-tier Italian eatery, eRemo, onsite. Indulge in a libation while engaging in the delightful sight of kangaroos hopping along the lawn, or warm up beside the enchanting outdoor fire during the colder months. For larger gatherings, a plethora of holiday homes are available, one in particular being Kelman Cottage in Lower Belford, which can comfortably accommodate up to 10 guests with prices starting at $510 per night. In case, you are looking to explore various destinations and are open to more accommodation options, there is a vast array of choices in the capital city. There you will find everything from modest budget stays to luxurious penthouses. Check out some of the best hotels in Sydney at http://www.newsouthwaleshotels.net/en/sydney-hotels-30285/. If you're on a budget and seek a unique 'in nature' experience close to the vineyards and enjoy live music with the ambiance of a festival, be sure to explore the Dashville arrangement. Prices for two nights, including lively music, start as low as $65,however, you will need to bring your own tent.That's an exhilarating experience that won't break the bank.

View from the top

A vineyard in the Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia

A vineyard in the Hunter Valley.

To get a commanding view of the Valley, visit the sculpture gardens and walk up Len Evans Memorial Lookout at Constable Estate or for those less afraid of dizzying heights, get up early for a dawn balloon ride with Balloon Aloft.

  • Todd Alexander is the author of the best-selling memoirs, Thirty Thousand Bottles of Wine and a Pig Called Helga and You’ve Got to Be Kidding: A Shedload of Wine and a Farm Full of Goats. Both comedies detail his tree-change to the Hunter Valley.